Power supply for the rockpi

The TL-POE10R spec says:

12VDC 1A, 9VDC 1A, 5VDC 2A selectable

Which one do you select? I suggest you use 12V. Also, how do you convert the DC 5.5x2.1mm to type C?

Never, ever, don’t. Mine is fried with 20V. I think “Radxa Team” label should be deleted from your name.

How did you exactly burn your ROCK Pi 4? I am responsible for all the post I posted on this forum. If anything I said mislead you to burn your board, please point it out.

I use this adapter to connect POE-splitter. Also I use 12V. As I mentioned: if I connect just a board with M.2 connected it works. Once I attach HDMI it shuts down. I will try to check later anything in serial console but not sure if it reports anything there.

I’ve used spare laptop charger with 20V output, connected it to USB 2.0 Type A female connector with removing all other pins, not to make them short cut, make it more safe. Connected the right one to +20V, left one to 0V I have supplied power, and then I ve connected a regular Type-A to Type-C cable to it. Measured and checked the voltage as 20.3V Yout will see in the picture (not to mension that I always use red marked cable as +V

It didn’t work after 20V. I switched back to my QC 3.0 charger which was ok for device running but causes some power issues under heavy load, it didn’t work either.


Sorry for being offensive.

Prob should work but it might be like some of the Dells that has a sort of early proprietary PD protocol.
I have tested with various dumb 12vdc smps and it works fine.
It copes with 20V I am sure as long as the polarity is correct might even have a diode to protect but not sure.

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@jack No opinion?

We have built something similar as yours and tested with a power source generator, it works without issues. You can check the video here:

https://im3.ezgif.com/tmp/ezgif-3-b4b332c6b0f9.mp4

However, when we use a 19V power adapter for a projector(xgimi projector) we have, it just burnt the board… It turns out the NB679GD chip is burnt. We can fix it by replacing a new NB679GD.

Another 19V ASUS laptop power adapter seems good and did not burnt the NB679GD.

Multiple 12V power adapters are tested and works without issue.

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So my setup is correct but board has some issues specific to itself. I suspected NB679GD and gave 5V to GPIO +5V pin as others did in this topic for just only ONCE and it didn’t work either.

Result:
It seems burn of NB679GD may pass through high voltage to 5V power rail of the board and it seems it has completely gone.
I would advise others not to use 20V(trial will be turning fortune of wheel).

Thanks for response.

But it seems responsibility does not make any sense.

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Hi all!
I’m only waiting for my RockPi, have a big plans for it (NAS, OMV, PLEX etc.)
So as I get, PentaSata Hat is needed for ATX power, so i’m gonna take one 1u server PSU (it’s not so expensive, and after some period i think i will find a real usage for it).
sooo, is it possible to power all from it: PCB, HAT & 5* 3.5 drives? And how should this to be done?

The Penta SATA HAT can also use a DC power supply, which works with 3.5-inch drives.

You mean DC supply from rockpi itself? (from usb-c PD?)

From the hat DC

Sorry, i don’t get it
Correct me if i’m wrong:
There is RockPi itself, it could be powered by Type-c
And there is Penta Sata Hat, which connected to SBC via M.2 and GPIO. Also it have ATX power input.

My question was - can I, with only ATX power supply unit (like standard for PC) power RockPi and Sata Hat? Should i wire somehow GPIO, or find atx->usb-c adapter, to power all in one?

Thanks and sorry for my stupidness

Yes, you can just use an ATX power supply. Just assemble ROCK Pi and Penta SATA HAT together.

Hey there!
Well, I’m successfully powering my RockPi from the standard ATX PSU, but for that I had to shorten green and black pins on main socket, and use builtin power switch. What I missing? Is there a way to manage the power on and off, more convenient -ish? may be some extra PCB or anything else?

Prob something like a denounced push switch on a JK flip flop driving a transistor could replace the short or even just a latching push switch.
Or via gpio but again a JK flip flop that is on via its first clock (power on).

A few ways I guess but yeah its a bit of DiY needed.

Thanks! But unfortunately, i’m not so good in electronics (especially in english terminology), can you provide some links on real products, just like an example please?
Thanks!

Your prob best googling raspberry pi info on driving a transistor via gpio as a switch.

“2n2222 pi circuit”

Actually its also a long time for me a D-type would prob be easier but again you will have to google.

Or as I say replace your shorting wire with a push latching switch.

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Something similar seems to have happened to me. It worked fine with a Xiaomi 5V/9V/12V USB power supply. I wanted to switch to an old laptop power supply, Dell 19,7V, used this adapter (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001609603310.html) and soldered the correct barrel jack to the Dell power supply. But when I connected it nothing happened and it does not work with the Xiaomi power supply either anymore. I tested with a multimeter and the 5V rail is shorted to ground now. I double checked, I did not mess up the polarity. Tomorrow I will attempt to desolder the NB679GB and check if it is responsible for the short.