Going Offgrid & battery powered RockPI 4B Tablet

I am new to RockPI, and i’m interested in building a mobile tablet that would include speakers, 7" touch screen, cameras, some sensors leds etc) and charged using solar panel or using an adapter (9V 2A).

  • Is it possible to use pjuice HAT to power up the board (it outputs 5V ~2.5A)? or better look for other battery charging module rated for 9v-20v?

  • Is it possible to power board from a dedicated pin?

-What is the average energy consumption of the board? (so i can calculate battery needed, was thinking about 12000mah 3.3v of pjuice HAT battery)

Please share your ideas on turning RockPI 4B board into an offgrid tablet.

Meanwhile i got some hints after few hours of reading comments and arguments on this forum.

  • The GPIO pins include 5v Input, so its likely to “work” with the pijuice HAT - Though its unclear the max amps input on the GPIO pin of RockPI 4, Also pijuice would drive max 5v 2.5A while RockPI would need at least 5v 3A

  • As it competitor RK3399 based SBC with the numbering 4, the board consumes around 15-18W

Though the powering of this board is a bit complicated at 1st, it can be simple with the Quick Charge 3.0 (Now i understand that QC would self regulate the voltage)

So looking at this principle, i found a charging module (IP5328) with QC3 enabled, the spec seems to fit:

Input voltage 5-12V (fast charge protocol automatically adjusts the voltage) Type-C input
charging current; 3100mah (fast charge protocol automatically adjusts the current)
output voltage is; 5V-12V ± 0.3V (fast charge protocol automatically adjusts the voltage)
the output USB rated current is; 3.1A (fast charge protocol automatically adjusts the current)
5V3.1A/9V2.0A/12V1.5A

I also found 28W 5v Solar panel with QC 3.0 enabled (using Type-C Output) with max output of 5v 4.8A.

My next search will be for a suitable battery, taking in consideration physical measures (that would fit in my setup under the 7" screen) and battery capacity as well as charge/discharge capacities.

Very good question, exactly what I wanted to know as well… looking forward to your findings…
I better study the schematic or board desciption before I did anything to burn my board… I think I would use a power bank as temp power source…

hey homie, the post you replied to a few weeks ago was made in February of 2021 - it seems like you might not have noticed the date? It’s usually okay to start your own thread when a previous one fails to adequately answer your question, or when the prior discussion is left “incomplete” as I would say is true of this case.

Anyway, since homie never ended up getting back to the thread back in '21 I might as well chime in to say that I’ve run pretty much all of my SBC’s, including my Rock Pi 4C, using power from a random “USB power bank” that I bought on Amazon after reading some good reviews and doing a bit of research. I believe the important features to look for are:

  • minimum 3 amps @ 5 volts output (careful here, TONS of these chargers from popular brands like, e.g., Goal Zero, only offer ~2 amps @ 5 volts)
  • ideally you want to look for performance standards like “PD” and “QC 3.0” - these terms refers to specific “quick charge” protocols that essentially allow a device to give the power bank thumbs up to supply more than 5 volts, thus upping the total power delivery even if the amperage drops a bit. For example, you’d commonly find a 3 A @ 5 V power supply (~15 watts) w/ QC 3.0 compliant switching that can bump up to 2 A @ 9 V or 1.5A @ 12 V - both of which would supply ~18 watts in theory.
  • USB-A output or USB-C output both oughta work just fine, just use the appropriate cable obviously.
    *For capacity, you probably want a minimum of] ~10 amp-hours @ 5 Volts, or 50 “watt-hours” (they will commonly advertise in milli-amp-hours, e.g. 10,400 mAh = 10.4 Ah). In theory 10,400 mAh, with the Rockpi running internally at 5 volts, equates to 52 “watt-hours”. They say the Rockpi will draw up to 18 watts, not including power draw from, say, a CPU fan, or peripherals like mouse/keyboard or a touchscreen without its own separate power supply, etc. Unless you’re going to be rendering 4k videos while also copying ~100 gigs of data back and forth between your SD card and eMMC module, I kind of doubt you will be pulling 18 watts with any regularity. You can find more detailed info on power draw elsewhere in the forum, as well as tips on conserving power I am sure.

NOW after all that, I’ll offer a suggestion of a power brick that I bought ~2 years ago that I’ve been really really impressed with. It holds a charge really well, it was super affordable, it had great reviews back when I bought it and it appears to still have excellent feedback on Amazon - never heard of the company “charmast”, seems like they are Japanese? Here’s a link to the latest version of the unit that I purchased ~2 years ago.\

The battery chargers i bought from aliexpress have some weird and unwanted actions:
0. My connection is: Power adapter = QC3 => charging module => USB => QC3

  1. When Charging battery RockPi would boot and do ogin, then power cuts => i guess its driving more power than exist, on the other hand if not charging it will work on battery pretty well
  2. Disconnect or connect power cable would always cause power cut to the RockPi

My Batteries are 20000 mAH & 12000 mAH. i would post my setup & build.
I have been building this since then and only now succeed to put things in its new 3D Home case (super heavy block)

Adapter 1

Edit: @reptile I initially missed your first post and only saw your second post, thought you were recommending this setup - but you were actually pointing out some problems that you’d had with this configuration. It sounds like it mostly comes down to the behavior of the charge controller.

I wonder if it is a necessary design limitation of these little DC charge controller boards that they are unable to supply steady power while also receiving a charge? Could this problem be remedied with some simple circuitry “tricks”, you think? I’m wondering if some combination of bypass-switch with a diode could allow your existing hardware to overcome this problem, but that’s a bit above my electronics paygrade - I’m no circuits guru that is for sure…